01
The FIRE maths
Five ideas that decide when you stop working. Everything else in personal finance is detail.
Compounding
Returns earning returns. The curve does almost nothing, then almost everything.
Everyone knows compounding is powerful. Almost nobody internalises where the power sits. It is not
spread evenly across the years — it is stacked violently at the end. That's why the boring middle years
feel like failure, and why quitting at year 12 is the single most expensive thing you can do.
Worked example
$500/month · 7% a year · 30 years
- You contribute
- $180,000
- You end with
- $609,985
- The market added
- $429,985
Now split the timeline. After 20 years you have $260,463. The final decade alone
adds $349,522 — more than the first two decades combined, and 57% of the ending balance.
Same contribution every month. The last ten years do most of the work.
The practical consequence: time in the market is not one input among several. It is the input. A 25-year-old
saving $200 a month will likely beat a 40-year-old saving $600 a month, and no amount of clever stock-picking
closes that gap.
Savings rate
The share of income you don't spend. The only variable that really moves your date.
This is the one that surprises people. Your savings rate does two things at once: it fills the portfolio
faster and it shrinks the finish line, because the finish line is a multiple of your spending. Spend
less and you need less. It works from both ends, which is why it dominates investment returns.
Starting from zero, at a 5% real return, needing 25× annual expenses:
| You save | Years to financial independence |
| 5% | 65.8 |
| 10% | 51.4 |
| 15% | 42.8 |
| 20% | 36.7 |
| 30% | 28.0 |
| 40% | 21.6 |
| 50% | 16.6 |
| 65% | 10.5 |
| 75% | 7.1 |
Read the jump from 10% to 20%: it doesn't halve the wait, it cuts it by 15 years. Note also
what's not in that table — your income. A high earner saving 10% retires later than a modest
earner saving 50%. The rate is what matters, not the salary.
The honest caveat: this assumes a constant income, a constant real return, and no life. Nobody's
path is this smooth. It's a compass, not a schedule.
Your FI number & the 4% rule
The portfolio that covers your spending forever. Roughly 25× what you spend in a year.
The 4% rule came out of research into historical US portfolios: withdraw 4% of the starting balance, adjust for
inflation each year, and you'd have survived most 30-year windows. Invert it and you get the target: divide by
4%, or multiply spending by 25.
Worked example
Spending → the number you need
- Spend $40,000/yr
- $1,000,000
- Spend $60,000/yr
- $1,500,000
- Spend $80,000/yr
- $2,000,000
This is why the brand is called 2 Comma Investor. Two commas —
$1,000,000 — is exactly the number that supports $40,000 a year at 4%. It isn't a
vanity target. It's arithmetic.
Where it breaks: 4% is a US-centric backtest, not a law. It assumed a 30-year retirement —
retire at 40 and you need the money to last 50+. It ignores taxes and fees. And it fails hardest in exactly the
scenario below.
Real vs nominal returns
Nominal is the number on the statement. Real is what it buys.
Inflation is the opponent nobody plans against, because the loss never shows up as a line item. Note the maths
is division, not subtraction — 7% minus 3% is not quite 4%.
Worked example
$100,000 · 7% nominal · 3% inflation · 30 years
- Real rate (1.07 ÷ 1.03 − 1)
- 3.88%
- Statement says
- $761,226
- Actually buys (today's $)
- $313,615
- Inflation took
- $447,611
You'd be a millionaire on paper and hold the purchasing power of roughly
$314,000. Always run retirement maths in real terms, or you're planning with a number that
doesn't exist.
The rule of 72
Divide 72 by the return to get the doubling time. Mental arithmetic, accurate enough.
Useful because it lets you sanity-check a claim in your head, in a conversation, without a spreadsheet.
| Return | Rule of 72 says | Actual |
| 4% | 18.0 yrs | 17.7 yrs |
| 7% | 10.3 yrs | 10.2 yrs |
| 10% | 7.2 yrs | 7.3 yrs |
Close enough to be worth memorising, and it works in reverse: if someone promises to double your money in
three years, they're implying a ~24% annual return. Now you know what to ask them.
Sequence of returns risk
The order of returns is irrelevant while saving, and brutal once withdrawing.
This is the most under-taught idea in retirement planning. Two people can earn the identical average return
over the identical decade and end up in different worlds — purely because of what happened first. Bad
years early force you to sell more shares to fund the same spending, and those shares aren't there for the
recovery.
Worked example
$1,000,000 · $40,000/yr withdrawn · identical returns, order reversed · 4.0% average
- Good years first
- $952,128
- Bad years first
- $775,771
- Difference
- $176,357
Exactly the same ten returns. Exactly the same average. $176,357 apart, decided
by nothing but luck of the draw. This is why cash buffers and flexible spending in early retirement matter
more than squeezing another 0.5% out of your allocation.
02
Investing mechanics
The plumbing. Mostly about not leaking money.
Expense ratios
The annual % a fund takes. The only fee you can control with certainty.
A fee looks trivial because it's quoted as a decimal. It isn't trivial, because it compounds against you for
the same thirty years your money compounds for you.
Worked example
$500,000 · 7% gross · 30 years
- Index fund @ 0.03%
- $3,774,243
- Active fund @ 0.75%
- $3,082,039
- Cost of the difference
- $692,204
0.72% a year — a rounding error on a brochure — costs $692,204, or
18.3% of the low-cost outcome. And it's charged whether the fund wins or loses. It is the most
reliable return available to you: guaranteed, immediate, and entirely within your control.
Dollar-cost averaging vs lump sum
Investing gradually vs all at once. One is mathematically better; the other is survivable.
If markets rise more often than they fall, lump sum wins on average — time in the market beats waiting.
The evidence generally favours it. But this is a case where the maths and the human diverge:
- Lump sum maximises expected return and maximises regret if you buy the week before a crash.
- DCA gives up some expected return to buy an insurance policy against your own behaviour.
The right answer is whichever one you'll actually stick with. A theoretically optimal plan you abandon in month
four returns less than a mediocre plan you keep for thirty years. Note also that most people never face the
question — if you're investing from a salary, you're dollar-cost averaging by default.
Rebalancing
Selling what won, buying what lost, to hold your target allocation.
It feels wrong every single time, which is the point — it's a rule that forces you to sell high and buy
low when your instincts scream the opposite.
Worked example
Target 60/40 · stocks +25%, bonds +2% · $100,000 start
- Stocks drift to
- $75,000 (64.8%)
- Bonds drift to
- $40,800 (35.2%)
- Sell stocks to restore 60/40
- $5,520
One good year quietly moved you from a 60/40 investor to a 64.8/35.2 investor.
Do nothing for a decade and you're running far more risk than you chose. Rebalancing isn't about return
— it's about still owning the portfolio you signed up for.
03
Reading a company
The vocabulary used in the research reports. If you only ever buy index funds,
you can skip this — but it's how you'd check whether anyone's claim about a stock holds up.
The P/E ratio
Price divided by earnings per share. What you pay for $1 of annual profit.
A P/E alone tells you almost nothing — cheap is often cheap for a reason. The useful move is to flip it.
One divided by the P/E gives the earnings yield, which puts a stock on the same footing as a
bond and makes the comparison concrete.
| P/E | Earnings yield | Reads as |
| 7.5× | 13.33% | Deep value, or something is broken |
| 17× | 5.88% | Roughly market-ish |
| 25× | 4.00% | Growth priced in |
| 35× | 2.86% | A lot must go right |
At 35×, you're accepting a 2.86% earnings yield today because you believe those earnings grow fast. That's
the actual bet. The multiple just hides it.
Free cash flow vs net income
Net income is an opinion. Free cash flow is closer to a fact.
Net income is the output of accounting choices — depreciation schedules, write-offs, revenue recognition.
Free cash flow is operating cash minus capital spending: money that actually arrived and stayed. It's what
pays dividends, buybacks and debt.
When the two diverge for years, ask why. Cash flow far above net income can be healthy (heavy depreciation on
assets bought long ago). Net income far above cash flow, persistently, is the classic warning sign.
Seen in the wild: the BKNG report leans on free cash flow rather than net income precisely
because the buyback is funded from cash, not from earnings.
Read it →
Buybacks and EPS
Fewer shares, same profit, higher earnings per share. Growth without growing.
This is the mechanic behind a huge share of reported EPS growth, and most people never see it.
Worked example
$10bn net income · 1bn shares · retire 5%
- EPS before
- $10.00
- EPS after
- $10.53
- Reported EPS growth
- +5.3%
The company earned not one extra dollar. A headline of "EPS grew 5%" can mean the
business grew, or it can mean the share count shrank. Always check which.
Buybacks are an investment decision, and like any investment the return depends on the price paid.
Retiring shares at 10× earnings is excellent. Doing it at 40× destroys value while still making the
EPS line look good — which is exactly why some management teams do it.
Shareholder yield
Dividends plus net buybacks, over market cap. The full picture of cash returned.
Dividend yield alone badly understates modern capital return, because buybacks have largely replaced dividends
as the way US companies hand cash back. A company with a 1% dividend can be returning 9%.
Worked example
Booking Holdings, FY26 estimates from the research note
- Buybacks
- $11.0bn
- Dividends
- $1.3bn
- Market cap
- $138.2bn
- Shareholder yield
- 8.9%
The dividend yield screens at under 1%, so income funds ignore it. The actual cash
returned is 8.9%. That gap is the entire reason the stock was interesting.
Payout ratio
The share of earnings paid as dividends. A safety gauge, not a yield gauge.
The question a payout ratio answers isn't "how much am I paid" — it's "how likely is this to survive a
bad year, and is there room to grow it?"
- Under ~40%: comfortable. Room to raise, room to absorb a downturn.
- 60–80%: mature. The dividend is roughly the whole story.
- Over 100%: paying out more than it earns. Funded by debt or asset sales. Ask how long that
can continue.
A 7% yield with a 110% payout ratio is not a 7% yield. It's a countdown to a cut, and the market usually knows
— which is why the yield is 7% in the first place.
DISCLAIMER ·
Education, not advice. Every example above is simplified to expose the mechanics. Real returns are volatile,
taxes and fees vary by country and account, and none of this considers your circumstances. 2 Comma Investor is not a
registered investment adviser or broker-dealer. Do your own research and consult a licensed professional before
acting.
Full disclosures →