Compounding
Returns earning returns. The curve does almost nothing, then almost everything.
Everyone knows compounding is powerful. Almost nobody internalizes where the power sits. It is not
spread evenly across the years; it is stacked violently at the end. That's why the boring middle years
feel like failure, and why quitting at year 12 is the single most expensive thing you can do.
Worked example
$500/month · 7% a year · 30 years
- You contribute
- $180,000
- You end with
- $609,985
- The market added
- $429,985
Now split the timeline. After 20 years you have $260,463. The final decade alone
adds $349,522, more than the first two decades combined, and 57% of the ending balance.
Same contribution every month. The last ten years do most of the work.
The practical consequence: time in the market is not one input among several. It is the input. A 25-year-old
saving $200 a month will likely beat a 40-year-old saving $600 a month, and no amount of clever stock-picking
closes that gap.
It is the engine under your savings rate is the whole game.
Savings rate
The share of income you don't spend. The only variable that really moves your date.
This is the one that surprises people. Your savings rate does two things at once: it fills the portfolio
faster and it shrinks the finish line, because the finish line is a multiple of your spending. Spend
less and you need less. It works from both ends, which is why it dominates investment returns.
Starting from zero, at a 5% real return, needing 25× annual expenses:
Read the jump from 10% to 20%: it doesn't halve the wait; it cuts it by 15 years. Note also
what's not in that table, your income. A high earner saving 10% retires later than a modest
earner saving 50%. The rate is what matters, not the salary.
The honest caveat: this assumes a constant income, a constant real return, and no life. Nobody's
path is this smooth. It's a compass, not a schedule.
Worked through in full in your savings rate is the whole game, and in the FIRE tracker.
Your FI number & the 4% rule
The portfolio that pays your expenses without you. Roughly 25 times what you spend in a year.
Invert a withdrawal rate and it stops being an income and becomes a target. Draw
4% and you need 25 times your annual spending. Every FI number you have
ever seen is that one multiplication.
The arithmetic is solid. The confidence usually attached to it is not. Run the same
4% draw over thirty years across a plausible range of return and volatility
assumptions and survival lands anywhere between 53.2% and
99.0%. That is a spread of 46 points, driven
entirely by two numbers nobody can know in advance.
Treat 4% as a planning convention, not a promise, and remember it was calibrated on
thirty year retirements. Over fifty years the rate that holds up about as well is
3.0%, which on the same portfolio is $30,000 rather than
$40,000.
The full argument, including the one lever that is free:
what a million dollars actually
pays.
Real vs nominal returns
Nominal is the number on the statement. Real is what it buys.
Inflation is the opponent nobody plans against, because the loss never shows up as a line item. Note the math
is division, not subtraction, 7% minus 3% is not quite 4%.
Worked example
$100,000 · 7% nominal · 3% inflation · 30 years
- Real rate (1.07 ÷ 1.03 − 1)
- 3.88%
- Statement says
- $761,226
- Actually buys (today's $)
- $313,615
- Inflation took
- $447,611
You'd be a millionaire on paper and hold the purchasing power of roughly
$314,000. Always run retirement math in real terms, or you're planning with a number that
doesn't exist.
Why the numbers in what a million dollars actually pays are all stated after inflation.
The rule of 72
Divide 72 by the return to get the doubling time. Mental arithmetic, accurate enough.
Useful because it lets you sanity-check a claim in your head, in a conversation, without a spreadsheet.
Close enough to be worth memorizing, and it works in reverse: if someone promises to double your money in
three years, they're implying a ~24% annual return. Now you know what to ask them.
Used throughout coast FIRE to check a target without a spreadsheet.
Sequence of returns risk
The order of returns is irrelevant while saving, and brutal once withdrawing.
This is the most under-taught idea in retirement planning. Two people can earn the identical average return
over the identical decade and end up in different worlds, purely because of what happened first. Bad
years early force you to sell more shares to fund the same spending, and those shares aren't there for the
recovery.
Worked example
$1,000,000 · $40,000/yr withdrawn · identical returns, order reversed · 4.0% average
- Good years first
- $952,128
- Bad years first
- $775,771
- Difference
- $176,357
Exactly the same ten returns. Exactly the same average. $176,357 apart, decided
by nothing but luck of the draw. This is why cash buffers and flexible spending in early retirement matter
more than squeezing another 0.5% out of your allocation.
The whole subject of the order your returns arrive in.
DISCLAIMER ·
Education, not advice. Every example above is simplified to expose the mechanics. Real returns are volatile,
taxes and fees vary by country and account, and none of this considers your circumstances. 2 Comma Investor is not a
registered investment adviser or broker-dealer. Do your own research and consult a licensed professional before
acting.
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