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Field Guide › Accounts and the tax code

The Field Guide · 07

Accounts and the tax code.

Three ways the government can tax the same dollar, and the rules that decide which one applies.

Each entry states the idea in one line, explains why it matters, and then shows the actual arithmetic. This is a reference, not a course. Take what you need and leave.

No dollar figures appear in this section. Contribution limits and bracket thresholds change every year, and when we last checked, the IRS page publishing them still carried the prior year's numbers while commercial calculators disagreed with each other. Get those from the IRS for your year. What is here is the structure, which does not change annually.

Tax-deferred accounts

The 401(k) and traditional IRA. No tax going in, no tax along the way, ordinary income on the way out.

You contribute before tax, so a dollar of salary becomes a dollar in the account rather than whatever is left after withholding. It then grows untouched for decades. Every dollar withdrawn is ordinary income at your normal graduated rate.

That last part is the one people forget. A tax-deferred account converts what would have been capital gains into ordinary income, which is taxed at a higher rate. It is still usually worth it, because decades of untaxed compounding outweigh the worse rate at the end, but it is the reason these accounts are the right home for assets that would be taxed as ordinary income anyway.

It is deferral, not forgiveness. A balance shown on a statement is a pre-tax number, and comparing it with an after-tax brokerage balance is not a comparison.

Which assets belong in one: asset location.

Roth accounts

Taxed going in, never again. No tax on growth, no tax on withdrawal.

The mirror image of a tax-deferred account. You contribute after tax, so it costs more today, and then the government is finished with it. Growth is untaxed and qualified withdrawals are untaxed.

That makes it the most valuable account you own per dollar, and the value grows the longer you leave it alone, because the shelter applies to everything the money earns. It is the right home for whatever you expect to grow most.

It is also why spending it first in retirement is the expensive mistake. In our drawdown model, draining the Roth first costs 21.0% of everything you spend against 13.8% for the sensible order.

Why it goes last: which pocket you spend from.

Taxable brokerage

An ordinary investment account. Already-taxed money in, taxed every year on what it distributes, taxed again on gains at sale.

It sounds like the worst of the three and it is not, because of the rate. Long-term gains and qualified dividends get preferential treatment, and appreciation is not taxed at all until you choose to sell, which is a form of deferral you control.

The cost is the annual drag on whatever the account distributes whether you wanted it or not. A bond yielding 5% in a taxable account at a 24% marginal rate gives up 120 basis points a year before anything else happens.

No contribution limits and no withdrawal rules, which is why it is where money goes once the sheltered space is full, and why it is usually the right account to spend first.

The drag, quantified: two identical portfolios.

Health savings account

The only account taxed at no point: deductible going in, untaxed growth, untaxed for qualified medical spending.

Every other account gives you the break at one end or the other. An HSA gives it at both, provided the money eventually goes toward qualified medical expenses, which for most households it eventually does.

It also converts into something like a traditional IRA after a certain age, with withdrawals for anything else taxed as ordinary income rather than penalized. So the downside case is an ordinary retirement account and the upside case is tax-free.

Requires an eligible high-deductible health plan, and the contribution limits change annually. Look them up at the IRS for your year rather than trusting an article.

Where it sits among competing uses of a dollar: the order of operations.

Required minimum distributions

The age at which the government stops letting you defer and starts forcing withdrawals from tax-deferred accounts.

Deferral was always a loan, and this is the repayment schedule. From a certain age you must withdraw a minimum amount each year from tax-deferred accounts, calculated from the balance and your life expectancy, and it is ordinary income whether you needed the money or not.

The consequence for planning is that a very large untouched 401(k) is not an unambiguous win. It eventually becomes a large forced withdrawal at whatever rate applies then, potentially pushing you into a higher bracket than the one you deferred at. That is the argument for drawing some tax-deferred money earlier than a strict ordering would suggest.

Roth accounts are treated differently, which is part of what makes them valuable late.

Why it argues against a pure spending order: which pocket you spend from. The withdrawals by age: the required withdrawal grows for about twenty years.

Early withdrawal penalty

An additional 10% tax on early distributions. It applies to money that you take from a qualified plan or a traditional IRA before age 59½, unless an exception applies.

A 401(k) is one type of qualified plan. You pay the 10% tax in addition to the income tax on the same money.

The IRS lists many exceptions. One is separation from service during or after the year that you turn 55. It applies to a qualified plan such as a 401(k), but not to an IRA. Another is a series of substantially equal payments.

The penalty is a cost, but it is not the only number. In our example, at equal tax rates, a 401(k) passes a taxable account in year 20, after the penalty. With a 50% match, it is ahead on day one.

The full comparison: a 401(k) can win even after the 10% penalty.

401(k) loan

A loan from your own 401(k) account. You pay the interest back into your own account.

A plan can offer loans, but it does not have to. The tax rules set a limit. It is the smaller of $50,000 or the larger of $10,000 or 50% of your vested balance. You must repay within five years. A loan that buys your main home can have a longer term.

The interest is not the cost, because it comes back to you. The cost is the market return that the borrowed money does not earn, plus a second tax on the interest.

If you leave your job with a loan open, the plan can reduce your account by the unpaid balance. In our example, that balance is $12,941 after two years. Unless you roll over that amount in time, it is taxable income.

The full comparison: the cost of a 401(k) loan is the return you miss.

Roth conversion

Deliberately moving money from a tax-deferred account to a Roth, paying the tax now to escape it later.

You choose to realize ordinary income this year in exchange for never being taxed on that money again. It only makes sense if the rate you pay now is lower than the rate you would have paid later.

Which makes the timing everything. The years after you stop working and before required distributions and Social Security begin are usually the cheapest tax years of a lifetime: income is low, brackets are empty, and filling them deliberately is nearly free. Those are the conversion years.

It is the same idea as spending order, run in reverse. One decides which income to avoid realizing; the other decides when to realize it on purpose.

The window it exploits: which pocket you spend from.

529 plans

An account for education costs. After-tax money in, no tax on growth, no tax out if it is spent on qualifying expenses.

Structurally a Roth with a narrower purpose. The federal benefit is the untaxed growth; many states add a deduction or credit for contributions to their own plan, which is often the larger part of the benefit for a short time horizon because it arrives immediately rather than compounding.

Our model contributes $300 a month for 18 years, which is $64,800 of contributions. The plan ends at $129,970 against $118,997 for the same money in a taxable account, an advantage of $10,973, or 9.2%. Useful, and smaller than most people expect, because an eighteen-year horizon is short for a tax shelter and a taxable account holding equities is already fairly tax-efficient.

The cost of being wrong is the real consideration. Money withdrawn for something other than a qualifying expense owes ordinary income tax plus a penalty on the earnings, which in our model ends at $107,812, actually worse than never having used the plan. Overfunding is a real risk, and it is why the sheltered retirement accounts come first.

The whole decision, including whether to fund it at all: paying for college.

Qualified expenses

The spending that unlocks a tax-free withdrawal. Each sheltered account has its own list, and the list is narrower than people assume.

The phrase does a lot of work. For a health savings account it means medical costs, which is broader than it sounds and includes things most people pay out of pocket for years. For a 529 it means tuition, fees, books, required equipment and a bounded amount of housing, with some additional uses added by legislation over time.

What is excluded is where the mistakes happen. Transportation, most insurance premiums, and general living costs beyond the housing allowance are not qualified education expenses. Non-prescription items and most cosmetic procedures are not qualified medical expenses.

The practical consequence is that you keep receipts. A health savings account in particular can be reimbursed years later for an expense incurred today, which turns documentation into a tax-free withdrawal at a time of your choosing. Lose the receipt and you lose that option.

The accounts that use the term: the HSA and paying for college.

Full retirement age

The age at which Social Security pays your calculated benefit in full. Claim earlier and it is permanently reduced; claim later and it is permanently increased.

Full retirement age is 67 for anyone retiring now. The benefit formula produces a figure at that age, and every other claiming age is a fixed adjustment to it. Claiming at the earliest possible age of sixty-two cuts the payment by about 30%, for life.

The adjustments are designed to be roughly actuarially neutral for an average life expectancy, which means the decision is not really about maximizing expected dollars. It is about which risk you would rather carry: claiming early protects against dying early, claiming late protects against living a long time with insufficient income.

Those are not symmetric risks. Dying early with money left over is not a problem you will experience. Running short at ninety is. That asymmetry is the main argument for delay, and it is stronger than any break-even calculation.

The arithmetic and the break-even: when to claim.

Delayed retirement credits

The increase for claiming Social Security after full retirement age. The best-priced inflation-linked annuity available to most people.

Each year of delay past full retirement age adds a fixed percentage to the benefit, up to age seventy. From 67 to seventy that is a total increase of about 24%, and compared with claiming at sixty-two the benefit at seventy is 1.77 times larger.

Compare that with buying the equivalent income in the open market. A government-backed, inflation-adjusted lifetime income stream with a survivor provision is an expensive product, and the credits buy it at a price no insurer offers, because the system is not trying to make a profit on the transaction.

The credits stop at seventy, so there is no reason to delay beyond it. And the bridge has to come from somewhere: the years between retiring and claiming are funded from the portfolio, which is the same window that is cheapest for Roth conversions. Those two decisions interact and should be made together.

The full comparison: when to claim Social Security, and the conversion window in which pocket you spend from.

Annuities

A contract that exchanges a lump sum for income you cannot outlive. The right tool for one specific risk, and mis-sold for every other.

Strip away the product names and there are two things. A plain immediate annuity converts capital into a lifetime payment, which is genuine insurance against living a long time: the people who die early subsidize the people who do not, and that subsidy is the only reason the payment can exceed what a portfolio safely supports.

Everything else sold under the name is an investment product with an insurance wrapper, and the wrapper is expensive. Variable and indexed annuities carry layered fees, surrender periods, and participation caps that are hard to price, which is exactly why they are profitable to sell. The commission on them is the clearest available signal about who the product is for.

Before buying any of it, note that you already own the best annuity available. Social Security is inflation-linked, government-backed, and the delayed retirement credits increase it by about 24% between full retirement age and seventy. Spending down a portfolio to delay claiming buys more guaranteed income per dollar than any contract on the market.

The annuity you already have: when to claim Social Security.

DISCLAIMER · Education, not advice. Every example above is simplified to expose the mechanics. Real returns are volatile, taxes and fees vary by country and account, and none of this considers your circumstances. 2 Comma Investor is not a registered investment adviser or broker-dealer. Do your own research and consult a licensed professional before acting. Full disclosures →
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